WORLD OF BACCHUS: Adega Borba

Built to protect the borders with Castela, the castle of Borba is located in the Northeast of Alentejo and was the embryo of the municipality of Borba. In the region, grape growing and wine making were already complementary activities to agriculture in Roman times. However, in the seventeenth century, wine making in Borba took precedence, bringing reputation and wealth to the inhabitants.
Many manorial houses were built at the same time as a tax-free treaty for wine export was signed with England. However, in the second half of the 19th century, phylloxera, an aphid, destroyed most vineyards in Europe and those were replaced by olive groves.
It was in 1955 that Adega de Borba was officially established by a couple of winemakers grouping themselves under a cooperative agreement. Today, more than 300 associates share 2,200 hectares of vineyards and vinify in state-of-the-art equipment for a production of 65% red and 35% white wine. Relying on facilities that cover more 12,000 square meters, the winery possesses up to 170 different fermenting vessels thus allowing for the treatment of numerous grape varieties from several different terroirs. Even the most traditional equipment still has its place in those installations such as lagares, the stone and cement open-air shallow containers.
Several brands and product lines feature the Borba label and Montes Claros Reserva is one of their shining ones. With grapes grown on chalk and clay soils, traditional grape varieties native of Portugal are used. For the reds, after a maceration for a full ten to twelve days, the wines are kept in new French and American oak barrels for a minimum of 12 months. For the whites, alcoholic fermentation takes place at 15 degrees Celsius then the wines are matured in French oaken casks with “bâtonnage sur lies” during a few days.

Montes Claros Reserva White

Appellation: Alentejo
Year: 2006
Area: Borba
Type: Arinto, Antão Vaz and Roupeiro
Color/Style: Dry White, Medium Body 13% ABV
Can be found at: Taipa Park n’ Shop MOP105

Clear, with an appearance of golden lemon colored with green hues, the nose in this dry white wine is complex and sophisticated with notes of tropical fruits such as ripe lime, pineapple and mango complemented with vanilla as well as smoke and oak. The attack in the mid palate is frank but balanced leading to a rich, creamy mouth feel and quite a long finish. The alcohol is medium and this is a wine to match with fish in rich cream sauce. It can be drunk now or cellared for another 2-3 years.

Montes Claros Red Reserva

Appellation: Alentejo
Year: 2002
Area: Borba
Type: Aragonez, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet
Color/Style: Dry Red, Medium Body 13% ABV
Can be found at: Park n’ Shop Taipa

I was surprised to see the 2002 vintage on the shelf in Park n’ Shop given the recommendation of the winery to drink it younger. With a deep garnet and orange rim colors, the nose of this dry wine come as coffee, cocoa beans, leather and a hint of dark wild fruits. The body is medium with balanced acidity and flavors of black and red fruits laced with a strong chocolate aroma. The tannins are still very much present for a medium finish. This wine is past its best and on the declining curve but still drinkable. Drink now with braised lamb and mushroom dishes.

Those wines are available in Parkn’Shop supermarket

*Assistant Professor at Institute For Tourism Studies
Dr. Baudoin Neirynck’s book  “The Grapes of Wine” is on sale in Dymocks IFC,
Dymocks The Peak, Dymocks Harbour Centre and Dymocks Discovery Bay